The Annapurna Circuit is the trek other treks get measured against: a long, varied walk around the entire Annapurna massif in Nepal, finishing over Thorong La at 5,416 metres. It is not a wilderness expedition — you sleep in teahouses every night, eat hot dal bhat in dining rooms, and share the trail with porters, mule trains and trekkers from everywhere. What it is, is a serious high-altitude undertaking that rewards slow pacing and punishes anyone who treats it like a race.
The full circuit runs roughly 160 to 230 kilometres depending on your exact route and side trips. The classic version takes 12 to 14 days; operator itineraries range from 10 to 16. Note that the road now reaches far up the Marsyangdi valley, so most trekkers skip the old lower-valley walking and start the trek proper from Chame, riding shared jeeps up from Besisahar.
The route
The standard direction is anticlockwise. After the jeep ride to Chame, the trail climbs through pine forest to Pisang, then to Manang at 3,540 m — the traditional acclimatisation stop, where most trekkers spend two nights. From Manang the trail rises through Yak Kharka and Ledar to Thorong Phedi or High Camp, then over Thorong La in a long pre-dawn push. The descent drops steeply to the pilgrimage town of Muktinath at 3,800 m, then down the Kali Gandaki valley through Kagbeni, Jomsom and Marpha. Most people arrange transport from Jomsom to Pokhara.
Popular add-ons include Tilicho Lake at 4,919 m from Manang, and Poon Hill at the far end near Pokhara. Both add days but are consistently described as worth it by trekkers who have the time.
Getting there
The usual start is Kathmandu to Besisahar by public bus, a 6 to 9 hour ride that typically costs around $12 to 15; private jeeps or cars run roughly $150 to 250. From Besisahar, shared jeeps continue up the valley to Dharapani and Chame. On the west side, the road reaches Muktinath and Jomsom; trekkers typically jeep or bus from Jomsom back to Pokhara, or fly the short Jomsom to Pokhara hop. Carry all your cash in Nepali rupees from Kathmandu or Pokhara — teahouses are cash-only and ATMs up the trail are unreliable.
When to go
October and November are the prime months: post-monsoon skies, stable weather, the clearest mountain views. March and April are the second season — warmer, with rhododendrons in bloom lower down. Avoid June to August, when the monsoon brings rain, landslides and leeches. Winter crossings of Thorong La are possible but demand much more planning, cold-weather gear and flexible timing.
Costs and budgeting
Trekking independently, most travellers report spending roughly $30 to 40 a day covering a teahouse room and three basic meals. Teahouse rooms themselves are cheap — commonly NPR 500 to 1,000 a night — and are often discounted or free if you take dinner and breakfast in-house. Meals run about $15 to 25 a day in total, though a dal bhat above Manang can cost $8 to 12 on its own. Budget extra for the small luxuries: hot showers ($2 to 6), wifi ($2 to 5), device charging ($1 to 5) and drinks can add another $15 to 25 a day. A sensible cash reserve for the whole trek is $300 to 400.
If you hire help, expect around $25 to 35 a day for a licensed guide and $15 to 25 a day for a porter, with tips of 10 to 15 percent customary. All-inclusive guided packages for 10 to 16 days generally fall between $675 and $1,325 per person depending on length and group size.
Permits and practicalities
The Annapurna Conservation Area permit (ACAP) costs NPR 3,000 for foreigners — get it in Kathmandu or Pokhara, because buying it at trail checkpoints reportedly costs double. The TIMS card situation is genuinely unclear: some 2026 sources say it is no longer required for the Circuit, others still list it as mandatory, so budget the NPR 2,000 anyway and check the current rule when you buy your ACAP.
On guides: multiple sources report that licensed guides became mandatory in Nepal’s protected areas from April 2023, and the Annapurna is a protected conservation area; at least one operator page argues the Circuit specifically has no official mandate. Permits are checked at multiple checkpoints along the trail. The practical advice is to plan on hiring a guide rather than arguing the point at a checkpoint. Travel insurance that covers helicopter evacuation up to 6,000 m is strongly recommended by virtually every source.
Altitude and safety
Thorong La at 5,416 m is genuine high-altitude territory with roughly half the oxygen of sea level, and altitude sickness is described across trekker reports as the most common reason people turn back. The two acclimatisation days around Manang are the standard safeguard — operators warn against cutting them on shortened itineraries. The pass crossing starts well before dawn, by headlamp, to get over before the afternoon wind builds. Walk slowly, drink plenty, and know the symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness and unusual fatigue mean stop ascending and, if they worsen, descend. The teahouse infrastructure makes this a forgiving trek logistically, but the altitude is not forgiving — treat the pass with respect and it usually treats you well.
Arjun Mehta is the pen name behind Mountains Bliss — practical mountain-travel guides with routes, costs, seasons and safety notes, researched from real trekker discussions and cross-checked before publishing. No sponsored posts, ever.
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