The Quilotoa Loop is the Andes trek that backpackers keep to themselves: three to five days of self-guided walking between 2,800 and 3,900 metres, threading remote Quechua villages, river canyons and farmland, with the turquoise crater lake of Quilotoa as the finale. It needs no guide, no permit, no expedition logistics — and a full five days of walking, eating and sleeping can cost under $100. For scenery per dollar, it is arguably the best-value trek in South America.
Getting to the trailhead
Almost all treks start from Latacunga, a market city about two hours south of Quito by bus (roughly $2.30 from Quito’s Quitumbe terminal). From Latacunga, local buses run to the villages on the loop — Sigchos, Isinlivi, Chugchilan and Quilotoa — though services are infrequent, so confirm times a day ahead and don’t plan to start walking after midday. Leave your main bag at your Latacunga hostel, which will usually store it cheaply or free, and carry only a day pack. There is also a small $2 entry fee payable at Quilotoa village itself.
The route, day by day
The classic three-day route runs Sigchos to Isinlivi (a rolling 4–5 hours through farmland and villages), Isinlivi to Chugchilan (a bigger day with the Toachi canyon descent and climb, roughly 5–6 hours), and Chugchilan up to Quilotoa (3–4 hours, ending at the crater rim). Five-day versions extend the loop with stops at Malingua Pamba or a rest day. The total distance is about 40 km. You can walk it in either direction, but ending at the crater lake feels like the natural climax, and buses back to Latacunga are easy from Quilotoa. At the lake, the optional 30–40 minute scramble down to the water — and back up — is brutally steep at 3,900 metres; kayaks on the crater lake are available for a few dollars if your legs need a break.
How much it costs
The Loop’s reputation for value is well earned. Trail hostels along the route charge roughly $15–20 per person per night, typically including a three-course dinner and a full breakfast — you only need to carry lunch supplies, snacks and water. Bus fares are $2–3 per leg. A three-day trek commonly totals $70–100 per person including transport, food and accommodation; five unhurried days with a rest day and the odd cold beer stay under $150. Guided three-day tours from Quito cost several hundred dollars, which is hard to justify given how straightforward the logistics are — the Loop is designed for independent walkers.
Best time to go
The Loop is walkable year-round, but the drier months (roughly June to September) offer the clearest skies and the best views of the crater lake. Afternoons frequently cloud over and can bring rain even in the dry season, so walk in the mornings and plan to arrive at each village by mid-afternoon. The rainy months make the canyon descents slippery and the lake moody — still beautiful, but expect mud. Because you walk between 2,800 and 3,900 metres, altitude is a factor: if you have just flown into Quito, spend a couple of days acclimatising before starting.
Accommodation and food
You do not need a tent: hostels and family-run lodges sit at the end of each walking day, with hot showers, hearty dinners and packed breakfasts. The most famous stops — like the lodges in Isinlivi and Chugchilan — are geared entirely to trekkers, with route maps on the wall and drying rooms for wet gear. Village shops have limited, more expensive supplies, so buy snacks, fruit and water in Latacunga before heading out. Menus are simple Andean fare — soup, quinoa, trout, potatoes — and most places happily cater to vegetarians with notice.
Practical tips
The trail is reasonably waymarked but not foolproof; download an offline map or carry a GPS track, especially for the canyon sections where paths split. Start walking early — the high-altitude sun is strong, storms build in the afternoon, and arriving late means missing the last bus connections. Dogs guarding farmhouses can be territorial; a walking pole and calm confidence usually suffice. Pack layers, sun protection, rain gear and at least a litre of water per day — plus more cash in small notes than you think, since there are no ATMs on the loop. Finally, respect that this is a working landscape: stay on paths, greet the locals, and leave the villages as you found them.
Arjun Mehta is the pen name behind Mountains Bliss — practical mountain-travel guides with routes, costs, seasons and safety notes, researched from real trekker discussions and cross-checked before publishing. No sponsored posts, ever.
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