Mount Kenya is Africa’s second-highest mountain, and its third peak – Point Lenana at 4,985 metres – is the continent’s great trekking summit. The two higher peaks, Batian (5,199 m) and Nelion (5,188 m), require technical rock climbing, but Lenana is a walk-up: a long, high, gloriously scenic trek that ends with a sunrise above the clouds, Kilimanjaro sometimes visible on the southern horizon. If Kilimanjaro is the famous one, Lenana is the connoisseur’s choice – wilder, quieter, and many trekkers say more beautiful.
The routes: Sirimon, Chogoria and Naro Moru
Three main routes serve trekkers. Sirimon, on the north-west side, is the most gradual and the best for acclimatization, climbing through forest and moorland to Shipton’s Camp at 4,200 m. Chogoria, on the east, is widely rated the most scenic, passing Lake Ellis, the dramatic Gorges Valley and Lake Michaelson. Naro Moru is the shortest and steepest – fast, but a poor acclimatization profile. The classic itinerary combines the best of both: ascend via Sirimon and descend via Chogoria, so you see both sides of the mountain in four to five days.
Timau, Burguret, Kamweti and Meru routes also exist but generally require special permission from park headquarters, so nearly all visitors stick to the big three.
A typical 5-day itinerary
Day one runs from Nairobi to Nanyuki, then to Sirimon Gate (2,660 m) and up the track through forest to Old Moses – also called Judmier – Camp at 3,300 m, about 9 kilometres of walking. Day two is the long contour through the moorland, crossing the Ontulili and Liki rivers into Mackinder Valley, with big views opening toward the main peaks, ending at Shipton’s Camp (4,200 m). Day three is often an acclimatization day around Shipton’s, with short walks to the Hauseberg tarns.
Summit day starts brutally early – around 2 to 3 am – climbing steep scree by headlamp for roughly three hours to reach Point Lenana for sunrise at about 6:30 am. Then the long descent begins down the Chogoria side: past Mintos Hut, the viewpoint above hidden Lake Michaelson, and Lake Ellis, to the Meru Bandas (2,950 m) for the night. The final day drops through bamboo and montane rainforest – keep an eye out for colobus monkeys, buffalo and forest elephants – to Chogoria Gate and the drive back to Nairobi, typically arriving mid-afternoon.
What it costs and how to book
Treks on Mount Kenya run through licensed operators – independent unguided trekking is not the norm, and park fees, huts, food, guides, cooks and porters are bundled into packages. For non-residents, five-day group treks are commonly quoted around USD 900 per person, with private treks higher: roughly USD 1,000 per person for two, and around USD 1,300 for a solo traveller. Four-day versions exist for fit, recently active trekkers but compress the altitude profile – the five-day rhythm is kinder and safer.
When comparing operators, check exactly what is included: park entrance fees, all meals on the mountain, hut or camping accommodation, and crew wages should be in the price. Tips for guides, porters and cooks are extra – budget on the order of USD 100-200 for the trek – as are your Nairobi hotel nights, personal gear rental, and travel insurance. Prices move with park fee changes and exchange rates, so confirm the inclusions in writing before you pay a deposit.
Seasons, altitude and practical notes
The drier months – January to February and July to October – are the best windows, with clearer skies and firmer trails. The mountain is equatorial, so temperatures swing wildly: scorching sun at midday, well below freezing on summit morning. Your packing list should span both extremes, with a proper warm layer, windproof shell, and sun protection all non-negotiable.
Altitude is the real challenge of Lenana, not technical difficulty. At nearly 5,000 metres, headaches, nausea and sleeplessness are common, and the only cure is proper acclimatization – which is exactly what the five-day itinerary’s slow gain is designed to provide. Walk slowly, drink constantly, and tell your guide immediately if symptoms worsen. Trekkers who arrive straight from sea level and rush the ascent are the ones who struggle. Give the mountain its five days, and sunrise from Lenana – Batian and Nelion glowing above you, the Kenyan highlands spread below – is one of the great dawns in African trekking.