The John Muir Trail runs about 211 miles (340 km) through the High Sierra, from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mt Whitney at 14,505 ft (4,421 m), descending to Whitney Portal. It crosses Yosemite, the Ansel Adams Wilderness, Kings Canyon and Sequoia national parks — arguably the finest continuous mountain walking in North America. With roughly 47,000 ft of total elevation gain and six major passes above 11,000 ft, it is a serious undertaking that rewards careful planning.
This guide covers the route, the famously competitive permit system, resupply strategy, season and costs — drawn from consolidated advice by experienced JMT hikers.
The route, pace and duration
Most southbound hikers take 18 to 22 days, at a common planning pace of 10 to 15 miles a day; strong ultralight walkers finish in 10 to 14. Southbound is the classic direction: you start in Yosemite Valley and finish at Mt Whitney, the highest summit in the contiguous United States. The six major passes — Donohue, Muir, Mather, Pinchot, Glen and Forester — demand respect: Forester Pass, at about 13,153 ft, is the highest. Southbound walkers get gradual acclimatisation as they climb, which helps against altitude sickness. In bad weather, the descents off the trail exits (Kearsarge or Onion Valley) are the standard escape routes.
Permits: the lottery and alternatives
Permits are the single hardest part of JMT planning. Southbound, you need a Yosemite wilderness permit via the recreation.gov rolling weekly lottery, up to 24 weeks (168 days) ahead; roughly 45 backpackers a day are allowed to exit via Donohue Pass, and peak-season lottery success runs around 30 to 35 percent. A portion of quota is released first-come, first-served seven days out as a backup option. The permit fee is small — about $5 a person — but winners must pay promptly or lose it. One long-distance permit covers the whole trail.
Northbound from Whitney Portal is a different system: the Mt Whitney Zone overnight lottery typically runs February to March, with around 60 permits a day. Alternative northbound starts at Cottonwood Pass or Horseshoe Meadow join the JMT far south and are considerably easier to obtain. Segment hikers use a separate first-come system. Permits must be picked up in person at a wilderness center the day before or by late morning. Note that a side trip to Half Dome needs its own separate permit.
Resupply strategy
Most hikers resupply every five to seven days and mail two to three packages ahead. Southbound stops: Tuolumne Meadows (mile ~23) is right on the trail; Reds Meadow near Mammoth (~mile 59) has a small store and accepts packages for a handling fee; Vermilion Valley Resort (~mile 88) is reached by ferry and shuttle, with package handling fees; and Muir Trail Ranch (~mile 108) is the last convenient stop — packages must be mailed by USPS Priority about three weeks ahead in a 5-gallon bucket, and the service fee is roughly $115 for up to 25 lb, with fuel the only thing in its tiny store. From Muir Trail Ranch to the Onion Valley exit is about 70 miles, so roughly seven days of food if you carry from there. Exact resupply fees change yearly — check each operator’s site before mailing.
Best season and safety
The prime window is late July through early September: snow largely melted, passes clear, stream crossings tame. June and early July mean fewer crowds and fewer mosquitoes but lingering snow and dangerous snowmelt stream crossings; mid-August to mid-September brings colder nights and rising wildfire risk. Afternoon thunderstorms are a daily occurrence in peak season, so cross the high passes early in the day.
Black bears are dense and food-habituated along the whole route, and bear canisters are required by regulation everywhere on the trail — rangers check and fines apply. Food hanging is not permitted in much of the route, and the BV500 is the most common canister. Bear safety is non-negotiable: plan for it from day one.
Getting there and typical costs
The Yosemite start is reached by YARTS public bus from Merced into Yosemite Valley, with seasonal shuttles linking the Mammoth area. At the south end, the short paved road from Whitney Portal reaches Lone Pine, from where Eastern Sierra Transit buses run the Lone Pine–Bishop–Mammoth corridor — the standard return leg. Many hikers hitch or book shuttles between trailheads; verify current seasonal schedules before you go.
Typical total trip cost is commonly quoted around $700–1,500 self-supported: permit fees, resupply handling and postage, transport and food. Bear canister purchase or rental is extra, and guided trips run into the thousands. The JMT rewards patience in planning — get the permit strategy right and the walking itself is straightforward.
Arjun Mehta is the pen name behind Mountains Bliss — practical mountain-travel guides with routes, costs, seasons and safety notes, researched from real trekker discussions and cross-checked before publishing. No sponsored posts, ever.
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