The trail from Jomsom to Muktinath, via the medieval village of Kagbeni, is one of Nepal’s most rewarding moderate treks: a journey up the Kali Gandaki valley into the rain shadow of the Himalaya, ending at one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in the country. The entire route stays below 4,000 metres, the walking is on well-established trails and jeep tracks, and because the region sits in a rain shadow, it is one of the few Nepal treks genuinely viable during the summer monsoon.
The route at a glance
Most trekkers reach Jomsom by the short, spectacular flight from Pokhara (or by road/jeep for the less flight-inclined). From Jomsom the trail follows the Kali Gandaki river — often described as the world’s deepest gorge, with the 8,000-metre giants of Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri towering on either side — to Kagbeni at about 2,800 metres, a maze of mud-brick lanes that marks the gateway to restricted Upper Mustang. From Kagbeni the trail climbs the windy Tibetan-style plateau to Muktinath at roughly 3,800 metres. As a standalone trek it takes four to six walking days; many walkers combine it with the Ghorepani/Poon Hill sunrise viewpoint and the Tatopani hot springs on the way up, making a superb 10 to 14-day loop from Pokhara.
Muktinath: the sacred site
Muktinath is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. The temple complex centres on a Vishnu shrine, a wall of 108 stone water spouts where pilgrims bathe, and nearby Buddhist gompas with a naturally burning flame. Visit early in the morning to see pilgrims performing their rituals before the day-trippers arrive, dress modestly, and ask before photographing worshippers. The village below the temples has lodges, teahouses, and small shops.
Permits and regulations
You need two permits for Lower Mustang: the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP, around USD 30) and a TIMS card, both obtainable in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Unlike Upper Mustang — the restricted region north of Kagbeni, which requires a costly restricted-area permit (USD 50 per person per day since late 2025) — Lower Mustang needs no restricted permit. Note that trekking regulations in the region have changed in recent years, including requirements around licensed guides; confirm the current rules with a registered agency or the tourist information offices before you go, and do not attempt to enter Upper Mustang without the proper permits.
Best time to go
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer the clearest mountain views and most stable weather. Lower Mustang’s unique advantage is the monsoon season (June to August): the rain shadow keeps the Jomsom–Kagbeni–Muktinath corridor remarkably dry while the rest of Nepal soaks, with far fewer trekkers on the trail — though the approach routes from Pokhara do get rain, so waterproof gear is still essential. Winter brings cold temperatures and possible snow around Muktinath, but brilliant clear skies for those properly equipped.
Practical tips
The Kali Gandaki valley funnels ferocious afternoon winds up from the south — plan to finish walking by early afternoon, especially on the exposed stretches between Jomsom and Kagbeni. The trail is dusty where it shares the jeep road; a buff or mask helps. Teahouse lodges are plentiful and inexpensive, serving the standard dal bhat, noodles, and soups — no need to carry a tent or cooking gear. Carry cash (ATMs are unreliable beyond Pokhara), sun protection for the intense high-altitude sun, and layers for the big day-night temperature swings.
Arjun Mehta is the pen name behind Mountains Bliss — practical mountain-travel guides with routes, costs, seasons and safety notes, researched from real trekker discussions and cross-checked before publishing. No sponsored posts, ever.
More about Mountains Bliss →