Mountains Bliss

Visiting Landmannalaugar, Iceland

Landmannalaugar sits in Iceland’s southern highlands, a geothermal wonderland of striped rhyolite mountains, black lava fields, and steaming hot springs. It is the northern trailhead of the famous Laugavegur trek to Thorsmork, and a destination in its own right for day walks among colours that look almost painted on. Reaching it is an adventure in itself, across rivers and rough highland tracks.

Why go

The day walks are superb: short loops climb Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur for panoramic views over the multicoloured hills, while longer routes cross lava fields to hot springs. The natural hot pool by the hut area is the perfect end to any walk. Landmannalaugar is also the start (or finish) of the multi-day Laugavegur and Fimmvorduhals treks, among the world’s great hut-to-hut walks. The highland light in late summer, with the first autumn colours, is extraordinary.

Best time to visit

The highland roads generally open from late June and close by late September or early October, and the hut season follows the same window. July and August bring the mildest weather and full services but also the most walkers; September is usually quieter with beautiful light, though nights turn cold. Outside the road season, access is for specialised winter expeditions only. As always, check conditions locally before finalising plans.

Getting around

Getting there is the crux. Highland buses run from Reykjavik and Hella in summer, and many visitors use them rather than driving. If you self-drive, you need a 4×4: the F-roads involve unbridged river crossings that demand experience and the right vehicle. Rental companies forbid standard cars on F-roads. Once there, everything is on foot. Check road status daily at the start and end of the season.

Good to know

  • River crossings on the drive in can be dangerous; check water levels, cross early in the day, and turn back if in doubt.
  • Weather changes brutally fast; carry full waterproofs, warm layers, and a map and compass even on short walks.
  • Book hut beds and campsite spots well ahead in July and August; the area is popular and capacity is limited.
  • There are no shops or fuel in Landmannalaugar; bring everything you need, including food and cooking gas.
  • Stay on marked paths; the mosses and geothermal soils are fragile and slow to recover from footprints.

Two or three days lets you walk the main peaks, soak in the hot pool, and sample the highlands properly. Check road openings, bus schedules, and accommodation locally before you go, and treat the journey in as part of the experience.

Arjun Mehta
Arjun Mehta (pen name)

Arjun Mehta is the pen name behind Mountains Bliss — practical mountain-travel guides with routes, costs, seasons and safety notes, researched from real trekker discussions and cross-checked before publishing. No sponsored posts, ever.

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