Quick Facts10-sec scan
How I Did It
- Took the HRTC direct Manali→Leh bus (approx ₹833–900), departing 4 AM and reaching Leh ~7–8 PM the same day — 13–16 hours over four high passes.
- Booked my seat at the Manali bus stand the evening before and slept at a guesthouse nearby for the 4 AM start.
- Chose the 1-day direct version, but spent the previous night in Manali (2,000 m) and carried altitude precautions seriously.
- Bought all food and water in Manali — dhabas en route are pricey and basic.
- Sat on the left side for the gorge views past Keylong.
My Route
- 1Manali~₹8002,000 m — overnight halt, guesthouse ~₹800
- 2HRTC bus, 4 AM departure~₹833~₹833
- 3Atal Tunnel → Keylong3,350 m) → Baralacha La (4,890 m
- 4Lachung La5,060 m) → Tanglang La (5,328 m
- 5Leh (~7:30 PM) — 2 rest days, then local sightseeing
My Experience
The 4 AM departure is brutal and completely worth it. I woke up properly past the Atal Tunnel as the first mountain light hit the Chandra valley; by Keylong the bus held the particular silence of people realising what they’d signed up for.
This is the fastest cheap way to Leh — and the hardest on your body. You sleep at ~2,000 m and by evening you’re at 3,500 m, having crossed 5,000 m passes in between. I hydrated constantly, ate light, walked slowly at every halt. The ones who felt rough had partied in Old Manali the night before.
Tanglang La (5,328 m) was the moment — prayer flags snapping in otherworldly wind, the bus wheezing, everyone taking the same photo. We rolled into Leh at 7:30 PM, and I have never been so happy to see a guesthouse bed.
Two full rest days in Leh afterwards are non-negotiable. The bus is only “cheap” if you don’t pay for it with three days of AMS.
What I Spent
| Expense | Approx Cost |
|---|---|
| Manali guesthouse (2 nights × ₹800) | ₹1,600 |
| HRTC Manali → Leh bus | ₹900 |
| Food/water for the journey | ₹400 |
| Leh guesthouse (3 nights × ₹700) | ₹2,100 |
| Leh food (4 days × ₹500) | ₹2,000 |
| ILP: env fee ₹400 + wildlife ₹20×4 + Red Cross | ₹550 |
| Shared-taxi monastery circuit | ₹300 |
| Delhi → Manali Volvo (to reach Manali) | ₹1,500 |
| Misc (snacks, power bank charging, entries) | ₹1,000 |
Prices are approximate and may vary.
Travelled: August 2025
Money Saver
The bus is the money saver — ₹900 vs ₹7,000+ for a flight. The 2-day alternative (HPTDC tourist bus with Keylong halt, ₹2,900 incl. dorm + dinner + breakfast) is ₹2,000 extremely well spent if you’re AMS-prone.
Reality Check
The ₹833 bus fare and buying all food in Manali.
Skipping acclimatization. The 1-day bus with zero rest in Leh is how trips get ruined.
A light jacket. It snowed briefly at Baralacha La — in August.
No ATMs between Keylong and Leh — and barely any network. Cash is survival gear on this route.
Yes, but next time I’d take the 2-day Keylong-halt version and actually enjoy the passes instead of enduring them.
What I Wish I Knew
- This bus runs roughly June to mid-September ONLY. Outside that, it’s flights or nothing.
- Carry: heavy jacket, sunscreen + lip balm, 2L water, dry snacks, motion-sickness pills, cash, power bank, ID.
- Book at the Manali stand the evening before; the 4 AM bus does fill up in season.
- A neck pillow and eye mask turn 16 hours from torture into merely long.
About the Traveler
Written by the Wayfare founder — travelling the Himalayas on a budget and writing down everything, so the next traveler spends less.
Founder stories · real trips, real costs.
Meera
1-day vs 2-day (Keylong halt) — which would you pick if you had the time?
2-day, no contest. The halt at Keylong (3,350 m) lets your body catch up before the 5,000 m passes. The 1-day version is a badge of honour; the 2-day version is a trip you actually enjoy.
Is this bus okay for someone who’s never been above 3,000 m?
Honestly? Fly in and acclimatize, or take the 2-day bus. The 1-day bus throws you from 2,000 m to 5,300 m passes in hours — that’s the highest-risk cheap option into Leh. Respect it.
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