boltQuick Facts10-sec scan
navigationHow I Did It
- check_circleTook an evening train from Chandigarh to Delhi, then the overnight UP Sampark Kranti to Khajuraho in sleeper class.
- check_circleStayed in a basic guesthouse a five-minute walk from the Western Group of temples.
- check_circleBought the combined ticket for the Western and Eastern temple groups — it covers everything in one go.
- check_circleRented a bicycle for one full day to cover the Eastern Group and the Jain temples on my own.
- check_circleAte at the small dhabas near the railway station instead of the tourist cafes near the temples.
alt_routeMy Route
- 1Chandigarh~₹250, 4train, sleeper ~₹250, 4 hrs
- 2Delhi~₹370, 10overnight train, sleeper ~₹370, 10 hrs
- 3Khajuraho~₹100auto to town ~₹100
- 4Temple groups~₹150bicycle ~₹150/day
articleMy Experience
I went to Khajuraho with zero expectations beyond “famous temples” and came back genuinely moved. The Western Group at sunrise is something else — the sandstone turns this warm honey colour and for the first hour there are almost no crowds. I spent three hours just walking between the Kandariya Mahadeva and Lakshmana temples, staring at carvings that are a thousand years old.
The town itself is tiny and easy. Everything is within walking or cycling distance, and people are used to backpackers so nobody hassles you. One evening I caught the light-and-sound show at the Western Group — ₹250 for the English show, and honestly worth it for the history alone. I rented a bicycle for ₹150 the next morning and rode out to the Eastern Group — the Jain temples there are quieter and the carvings just as detailed.
The best part of travelling solo here was the pace. I had no itinerary beyond the temples, so I ended up spending a whole afternoon at a chai stall near the Eastern Group talking to a guide who’d been showing people around for thirty years. Those unplanned hours were the real trip. He told me the best carvings are the ones tourists walk past — the musicians, the dancers, the everyday life scenes. He was right.
account_balance_walletWhat I Spent
| Expense | Approx Cost |
|---|---|
| Chandigarh–Delhi train (sleeper) | ₹250 |
| Delhi–Khajuraho train (sleeper) | ₹370 |
| Khajuraho station auto | ₹100 |
| Guesthouse, 2 nights | ₹1,200 |
| Food, 3 days | ₹900 |
| Bicycle rental, 1 day | ₹150 |
| Temple entry + light & sound show | ₹400 |
| Return trains (same route) | ₹620 |
| Snacks, water, misc | ₹400 |
Prices are approximate and may vary.
Travelled: Mar 2025
lightbulbMoney Saver
The overnight train does the job of both transport and a hotel night — I left Delhi at night and woke up in Khajuraho, saving one night’s stay. Also, the ₹40 ASI ticket covers the main groups; don’t let anyone sell you a “special” ticket.
verified_userReality Check
What actually saved money? Sleeper class on both long legs. It turned two travel nights into free accommodation.
What wasn’t worth saving money on? The bicycle. I first rented a rusty one for ₹80 and the chain fell off twice. The ₹150 one was smooth all day.
Biggest mistake? Reaching Khajuraho station at 6 am with no booking in March — I got a room, but I wasted an hour checking places half-asleep.
Biggest surprise? How much I enjoyed the Jain temples in the Eastern Group. Everyone talks about the Western Group, but the quieter eastern side was my favourite.
Would I do this route again? Yes, but I’d add a day trip to Panna or Raneh Falls next time — both are close and cheap to reach by shared auto.
tips_and_updatesWhat I Wish I Knew
- The UP Sampark Kranti runs only a few days a week — check the days before planning.
- March afternoons get hot; do the temples before 11 am and after 4 pm.
- The light-and-sound show has separate Hindi and English slots — confirm timings at the counter.
- ATMs exist in town but carry cash; smaller shops don’t take cards.
personAbout the Traveler
Kunal from Chandigarh — a traveller story on Mountains Bliss. Traveller stories · fellow travellers, honest budgets.
forumKunal
Is Khajuraho doable as a solo woman traveller? How did it feel?
I can only speak as a guy, but the town felt very safe — it’s small, tourist-friendly, and I saw several solo women travellers around the temple complex. Stick to the main areas after dark like anywhere else.
How much time do the temples actually need — one day or two?
One full day covers the Western and Eastern groups comfortably if you start early. I took two relaxed days and didn’t regret the slower pace.
forum Traveler discussion (0)
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